The Private Stock SEMI is a high density, well balanced, custom model designed by the Birdman crew. Most notably, it rocks the special “Bomb Knob,” a pronounced flared knob that not only feels great, but also eases the pressure on your hamate bone. Cut from the finest wood available and comes in -3 weight drop.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is this unsightly blemish on the handle of my bat?
The black dot you see on the handle is in fact a drop of ink that we apply to each adult bat. After the ink spreads up and down the grain, we use a measuring device (provided by MLB’s Office of the Commissioner) to insure proper “slope of grain” on that particular piece of wood. The “ink dot test” has drastically helped in reducing the amount of breakage with birch and maple bats in the professional ranks. Think of it as a method of quality control.
What size bat is right for me?
Good question! In short, there is no clear-cut answer. There are benefits to using light bats; there are benefits to swinging heavier ones. The same can be said about the length. With that in mind, the “right” bat size is probably more of a question about what size feels right! We are always available to help guide you toward a selection – feel free to reach out to us anytime!
Is it true that birch hardens with use and has a break-in period?
We’ve heard folklorish tales of birch “feeling like a wet newspaper,” but rest assured, we go through a few extra steps to provide you bomb dropping birch power right out of the box. Yes, it’s perfectly natural for your birch bat to dent a bit (especially in the beginning), but fear not: birch condenses and hardens over time with each laser you hit. Speaking of folklore, we’ve also heard tales of birch bats being so durable that they’ve lasted an entire season!
Why does wood density matter?
According to Major League Baseball, “low density” maple bats have a higher probability of breaking than their counterparts. Additionally, tests have shown that maple bats with less density have a lower “impact strength,” possibly leading to lessened exit velocities. Due to it’s fibrous nature and higher impact strength, birch is not significantly affected by wood density.
What side of the grains should I hit the ball on?
For birch and maple, always hit with the label up (or down). Doing so will allow you to hit with the “face grains” of the bat, giving you the most power and durability.
What age should I start swinging a wood bat?
As soon as humanly possible! If you’re goal is to play in the big leagues, you’re going to have to become proficient with wood. Even if you’re using metal in games, wood bats are a great training tool as they teach you how to find a smaller sweet spot.
Is there a certain way to care for my bat?
Yes. First and foremost, bats are meant for hitting baseballs and baseballs only. Additionally, being that wood is, well, wood, humidity and extreme, rapid changes in temperature can be detrimental. A safe play is to keep your bats indoors or in a controlled climate. That will ensure each bat lives it’s best life.
Maple or Birch?
Birch and maple are both great options. They share a commonality in that each are diffused-porous (closed grain) hardwoods, meaning that neither wear out through repeated use like ash bats.
Our maple bats are manufactured from the best maple on the planet – they are stiff and hard as a rock. If you live on the barrel, maple will last and last. Maple, however, tends to become more brittle in lighter weights and lower density models.
While birch is scientifically similar to maple, it does have longer fibers, allowing for more flex upon impact. Essentially, this added flex provides more room for error for the hitter. Birch does sacrifice some of the hardness that maple offers, but many will argue that it’s a non-factor. If you like big barrels and lighter bats, birch is a no-brainer. They maintain their durability even with lower density models.